29/10/08

I recently got back from a couple of days on the Oaxacan coast, which is supposedly where the beach scenes from 'Y tu mama tambien' were shot and while we were there we discovered how remote and deserted a beach could be.

It's a six hour turbulent bus ride from Oaxaca over the coastal mountain range to the town of Pochutla. The road snakes like spaghetti strewn over a baby's bib and coupled with a diver intent on breaking his personal best time, it left all occupants and luggage sliding around like marbles on a skate board. However on the occasions I found my face pressed against the glass, I did get to take in the incredible scenery. At the highest points lush green mountain caps gasped for breath above the white water of cloud as the sun was slowly extinguhised. From Pochutla we shared a cab with a wild eyed Mexican who at the top a his voice kept making what can only be described as a Donnald Duck impression. After a long hour of this, we finally arrived at our destination of Crucecita.

The next morning we approached someone with the confident look of having years of local knowledge, with the hope of finding an unspoilt beach. He murmured his directions to us which thankfully he then murmured to a taxi driver and we were on our way. The beach was a ten minute trek through swampy forest (which we've since learnt contained crocodiles). What waited on the other side was well worth the effort, a sweeping stretch of sand cut off by the forest at the back and two rocky cliffs at either end.

After a short while we decided the cliffs had to be climbed and that maybe we'd find someone selling food on the other side. So with no intention of returning we took all our stuff and began to traverse round the rocks that stretched out to sea. Each time we thought we were approaching the end we found the rocks we'd just climbed only concealed more rocks, the heat and hunger started to bear down. We climbed for almost an hour and a half and for those who know their climbing grades I'd estimate in certain places it was 4a. With no rope, unsuitable footwear, heavy rucksacks and sweaty hands in the intense heat, it was a test.

Finally upon reaching the other side, our hearts sank as we stared at another deserted beach, this time a around a mile long. With the pangs of hunger hitting like a sledge hammer we cut straight through the forest and hit the welcome road. Luckily a taxi came within minutes and took us to a beach that served food. Here we were greeted by a conspicuous chap who led us to old shack he called his 'place of business' we were then introduced to his 'business partner', a man half hanging out his hammock, who once introduced, burped a 'hola' through alcohol laced breath. We took whatever we could get, drowning the food's taste with chilly sauce.

That night we watched a live band in the park band stand with beers and tortillas in hand, that was a civilised as that night got!

Next day we opted for the more popular beach of Mazunte where the big rolling waves made for a good session of body surfing. Got a 'collectivo' (a pick-up truck that people pack ontop of) back to our gruelling 6 hour bus bound for Oaxaca.

31/10/08

Oaxaca is truly beautiful city from the Zapotect ruins of Monte Alban overlooking the vast valley, the small suburb like town of El Tule that claims to have the worlds biggest tree, to the cobbled streets of the old decaying centre. At night, even in the busiest part of town, crickets can be heard chirping to themselves and warm breezes blow smells of spices down the narrow streets. No matter how narrow the street though, the traffic flys up and down. The streams of cars are held at traffic lights like over-eager dogs held on taught leashes and tear off the second they see green. In these brief still moments, street entertainers appear from nowhere, juggling and even fire breathing for the loose change on the drivers dash boards. Some of the drivers are equally entertaining; yesterday I sore a man on a small scooter wearing a wrestling mask with his two small children squeezed on the seat.

There is a strong sense that rules are there to be broken. This is a county where the smoking ban is in place but everywhere you go, bar staff are lighting everyones smokes before lighting their own. On a recent trip to the pharmacy, I noticed most of the people in there were buying cigarettes.

Food however is taken very seriously and groups of Mexicans can be found on every corner, chewing over their day along with numerous tacos. Street fiestas are never more than a short walk away and you're always made to feel welcome if you stumble across one. Art is also high on the list of importance, with galleries and exhibitions at every turn not to mention the blanket of street art that covers Oaxaca's walls. Often all three are combined. The other night we crashed an exhibition with a great live band and free mezcal.

Sleep has been tricky. The local dogs (who live on the roofs) have obviously learnt of the success of the West end musical 'Cats' and have taken it upon themselves to rehearse for their big moment with a chorus of barks and howls. I've donated enough blood to mosquitoes that I'm expecting one of them to turn up soon with a NHS cup of tea and biscuits.

I've stayed in Oaxaca slightly longer than I originally thought as I've been advised not to miss the 'Day of the Dead' celebrations this weekend as it's supposedly the biggest few days in the Mexican calender. This has given me time to continue Spanish lessons and get a much better taste of this city. Excitement is in the air as people everywhere are preparing to set things off tonight with a bang!